The road to Hveragerði is like a miniature tour of Iceland’s topography. Passing the broken red rocks of the Rauðhólar craters that mark the edge of Greater Reykjavík, the route streaks through some low pine woods dotted with cabins, emerging onto a gnarled lava field before ascending to the high, windblown Hellisheiði mountain pass. Up there, the air takes on a chill and the wind picks up. In winter, it becomes a sometimes treacherous stretch of slush and black ice, closing to traffic when vicious wind storms blow by. But in the summer it’s a welcome first taste of Iceland’s raw, rugged wilderness.

On the other side of the pass lies a welcome sight — the valley in which Hveragerði is nestled. The downward winding road yields a birdseye view of the town, where a verdant treeline traces the mountains cradling a small grid of residential streets. Geothermal steam gushes from the cliffs, providing enough warmth and energy to heat several long rows of greenhouses. By day, Hveragerði’s greenery is pleasant and eye-catching; by night, the greenhouses provide a warm and homely glow. Amongst the boulder-strewn tundra and black floodplains of southern Iceland, Hveragerði is nothing short of an oasis.

The tourist mall

Hveragerði is also the first town on Route One South, placing it directly in the path of Iceland’s incessant tourist tidal wave — advantageously, or not, depending on your perspective. Almost every bus and car that’s heading for Seljalandsfoss and Solheimajökull, Vestmannaeyjar, Vík, Jökulsárlón (and beyond) passes through Hveragerði first. Passers-by used to stop to visit Bónus and the bakery, fill up on gas, or take an early restroom break. But the arrival of The Greenhouse — a hotel, department store and food hall rolled into one — has changed all that.

We stop for a look on a sunny late summer afternoon. The hall is close to capacity, even on a weekday, and it takes a couple of laps to find a seat. It’s hard to know how to feel about it. On one hand — yay, there’s a Yuzu Burger and tacos and the smell of espresso drifting through the air! There are shelves full of smoked salt and seaweed snacks, and rails of Kormákur og Skjöldur singing a siren song directly to my wallet. It’s like we never left 101! And then, on the other hand — ugh, I’m trying to get out of downtown for once and yet here I am, surrounded by tables of boisterous tourists and rampant kids all hopped up on holiday Haribo. Before my semi-fancy latte is empty, I’m empathising with the grey-faced staff, who seem understandably over the whole scene.

Get inni

An upside of The Greenhouse’s conveniences — or not, depending on your perspective — is that it magnetises the masses away from the old town, where our accommodation for the evening is situated. Inni Apartments is a swish complex of well-appointed flats with sleek, comfortable furniture — artfully strewn with blankets and cushions — and a kitchen, a freestanding bath, a walk-in shower, and easy access to a shared hot tub and a sauna. The apartments are chill, cosy and discreet, and, as I hit the sauna, I feel the pent-up tension draining out of my body.

Suitably relaxed, it’s time to take a drive around town. We stop for a peep into the Flóra greenhouse — a laid back gardening palace that sells plants, handsome pots and all kinds of supplies. It’s a lovely spot to wander around, with a relaxed mood and the scent of flowers hanging in the warm air.

Change is gonna come

It’s interesting to see how Hveragerði has responded to the tourist boom. The Reykjadalur hike — once a faint, semi-secret trail leading to a geothermal river and bathing spot — now has an expansive and fully packed car park. There’s a new welcome centre from which a steady trail of hikers head up into the mountains. It’s a whole event and while the old wild hiking vibe may be gone, sometimes change is just necessary — it’s clear from the amount of foot traffic that these facilities were sorely needed.

There’s also a stand to hire fat bikes and a long zipline threading down into the valley from above. Participants are driven up to a tall platform and clipped onto the line before coasting back down into the valley. Some extend their legs and surrender to gravity, flying down the rope easily and shrieking in delight. Others are more nervous and reluctant. One shy zipliner goes lumpen as soon as their feet leave the ground, grinding to an inevitable, humiliating halt midway down. I watch with a mix of empathy and amusement as they’re dragged down to the terminus to join their photo-snapping friends.

The freshest beer

Hveragerði also has a surprising variety of food options for a town of its size. Rósakaffi is a simple café in a leafy greenhouse, serving coffee and cake among the flowers. The nearby Ölverk Pizza & Brewery is a good vibes family operation that’s understandably popular with locals. There’s an extensive pizza menu and a chalkboard of eight craft beers — sours, lagers, ales and experimental blends. Most of them were brewed just a few feet away, making it some of the most fresh and delicious beer you’ll find in all of Iceland.

Skyrgerðin is a more formal sit-down option. It’s a quiet, cosy eatery that opened in 2016, offering Italian staples, steaks, and comfort food dishes. The service is warm and attentive, and the smoky king prawn bruschetta and piping hot, crisp and creamy arancini are menu highlights. There’s also Matkráin, a smart and snappy sister restaurant to the classic Reykjavík smørrebrød joint Jómfrúin, where we have a lunchtime snack of perfectly plated steak tartare and a decadent, creamy prawn cocktail.

Eventually, it’s time to reluctantly head back to town, and as we hit the Hellisheiði, my eyes scan Hveragerði’s leafy streets and rooftops one more time. We’re only just leaving, but I’m already planning a quick return.

Hveragerði is 45km from Reykjavík on Route One South. Book a stay at Inni Apartments at inniapartments.is