The Reykjavík Grapevine


Food

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  • Angelo

    Angelo

    This quiet modish bistro adjacent to the discreet Hotel Fron seems miles away from Reykjavík’s thumping party central while being right smack in the centre. Owner Hanna Magnúsdóttir is intent on making the Angelo Mediterranean in feeling while relying on good Icelandic…

  • Lækjarbrekka

    Lækjarbrekka

    The oldest house in Reykjavik, built in 1854 by a wealthy Danish merchant is also one of its oldest restaurants, going from house to bakery to disrepair to historical landmark when it opened its doors as a restaurant in 1981. Inside the…

  • Hótel Holt Offers Classic French Cuisine for Peanuts

    Hótel Holt Offers Classic French Cuisine for Peanuts

    “We don’t do fusion cooking here,” says chef Birgir Karl Ólafsson. “We have a framework for our menu. It’s alright to put one step out of the frame, but we don’t leave the frame. Classical French cuisine is what we do.” Birgir…

  • Eating Iceland

    Banned in the USA Eysteinsson, who began as a chef at the Hótel Holt, wisely keeps the place open seven days a week. The menu at this intimate, 44-seat eatery won’t break the bank. Starters, such as smoked puffin in mustard sauce,…

  • Finally, Wine Education

    Finally, Wine Education

    Television crews from Denmark, Finland and the Netherlands recorded the event and journalists from the Washington Post, New York Times and specialty food magazines wrote about it. “The chefs were more eager to win this year than ever. This proves the competition…

  • RUNNING A CAFÉ THE NON-CAPITALIST WAY

    RUNNING A CAFÉ THE NON-CAPITALIST WAY

    “Why Not Sell Coffee?” Helena, another of the owners, informs me that the original idea was to open up a culture/art-centre where all kinds of art could blossom. “But a centre like that needs a cash flow to keep it going so…

  • Elwis Has Left the Building

    Elwis Has Left the Building

    Desperate Middle-Aged People and Large Tuxedo-Clad Birds So it was with some trepidation that Grapevine’s correspondents entered Café Victor, situated close to Ingólfstorg square in downtown Reykjavík, one stormy night in January 2005. But we were soon put at ease by the…

  • Drowned fish: A night at THORVALDSEN

    Drowned fish: A night at THORVALDSEN

    Beware the jocks and yuppies None of these Austurstræti landmarks was the destination of Grapevines´correspondents, as we headed towards the restaurant/bar Thorvaldsen on a chilly evening in late December back in ‘04. Outside, we ran into the guitarist of the Icelandic punk…

  • PÓSTBARINN and the great post office rush

    PÓSTBARINN and the great post office rush

    The bars’ name is actually derived from the street it stands on, Pósthússtræti (Post Office Street). The first post office in Iceland is rumoured to have stood on this lot, although this was more likely located next door, where Hótel Borg now…

  • TWO TIMES A FISH

    TWO TIMES A FISH

    Tveir fiskar is not particularly conspicuous in the Reykjavik restaurant flora. It almost reminds one of a mythical place that everyone has heard of but no one has actually seen, like Valhalla or Legoland. We were therefore pleasantly surprised when an almost…

  • Icelandic cusine: Arriving any century now

    Icelandic cusine: Arriving any century now

    They compete in two categories. The first is a cold buffet, which consists of appetisers as well as various main courses along with desserts and confectioneries. The decor, lighting, and place settings are also a part of the Olympic contest. The second…

  • FRY AND THE FAMILY STONE

    FRY AND THE FAMILY STONE

    Grapevine’s correspondents arrived early in the evening so we were practically the only guests there, but that would change soon. The first things that greeted us when we came up the stairs boded well for the evening ahead: A life-size statue of…

  • ”My dream was always to become a slave to an arabic king”

    We jump into car and drive to Háls, the last house on the right, in the valley among the dramatic mountains of Öxnadalur. Close by, the Home of the Winds glacier huffs and puffs, perhaps watching us. Stimulated by the dramatic scenery…

  • HORST TAPAS

    HORST TAPAS

    On a hot and sultry day like this it is particularly appropriate to enjoy a round of Tapas. The only restaurant in Reykjavik specialising in this Spanish culinary delight is Tapas Bar, located in the cellar of Vesturgata 3b. The central location…

  • THERE’S MORE TO THE OCEAN THAN BILLY

    THERE’S MORE TO THE OCEAN THAN BILLY

    Grapevine’s correspondents arrived at Við tjörnina at ten o’clock one summer evening in June. The late hour was due to the fact that one of us felt compelled to attend an allegedly important football match (his team, KR, won, by the way).…

  • A LOVING MEAL AT HORNIÐ

    A LOVING MEAL AT HORNIÐ

    We may be in Reykjavík but if you go to Hafnarstræti you´ll find a place called Hornið which would have pleased my uncle Roberto. It is as plain as a good slice of Mozzarella with thick slice of tomato on top, and…

  • A Blend of Entertainment and Pleasure

    A Blend of Entertainment and Pleasure

    The late John S. Wilson, who wrote about music for the New York Times for half a century, used an interesting test procedure for measuring the quality of restaurants. His “Before and After System” is simple and effective. Have an extra dry…

  • Paddy´s Top Five Burger Joints

    Hard Rock Cafe Kringlan Mall Originally I had intended on skipping the larger chains like Hard Rock. However, during my thorough and highly scientific poll of hamburger scholars, the place came highly rated over and over. I went and asked the waitress…

  • SO WHAT ELSE IS NEW ?

    Rossopomodoro is a franchise operation, to be sure. It is based on the pure Italian Napoli pizza mentality. However, there are not many Rossos. One in Madrid, one in Rio de Janeiro and one in Reykjavik. In the mother country, Italy, you…

  • THINGS AIN´T WHAT THEY USED TO BE

    THINGS AIN´T WHAT THEY USED TO BE

    The average person living in Reykjavík is really a very special breed. Not the pure, patriotic Icelander whose values are nearly always measured by ancient customs and tales that could easily be a part of the Old Testament or even the Talmud.…

  • Coffee

    Coffee

    Like so many of my fellow countrymen I hold coffee dear, it is the source of my powers and without it I’m useless. For the last few years coffee has been the constant that the rest of my world revolves around. A…

  • THE SWEET STUFF

    THE SWEET STUFF

    Iceland’s relationship with sweets has long been a strange one. For the most part it seems we tend to think of blatantly commercial, 100% American brands of sweets and cereals as somehow distinctively Icelandic. General Mills´ Coco Puffs (or Kókó Pöffs, as…

  • A COFFEE SHOP WITH CLASS

    A COFFEE SHOP WITH CLASS

    Those who have travelled a lot will know what I am talking about when I moan about the fact that there isn’t a decent coffee shop with small snacks available in the particular town we have been discussing. Small, good looking, clean…