Iceland may not have pub culture like the Brits, or bistro culture like the French. But we do have a healthy drinking culture. I kid. Like their bratty Scandi cousins, Icelanders have a strange relationship with alcohol — drink to get drunk and do it fast.
This has been changing in recent years, though, and studies show that young Icelanders are taking to drinking much later than their millennial parents did — if they ever start at all. Still, day time drinking is generally frowned upon, unless you are a suited and booted investment banker, lawyer or politician, in which case you can drink to your heart’s content on company expense accounts in broad daylight!
Wine culture has become an acceptable cultural practice in recent years. Despite the draconian taxation system, and even more rigid Protestant attitude towards alcohol, the appeal of wine is growing. Once limited to a few pages on a restaurant menu or one wall of shelves at the state-run Vinbuðin, today we can enjoy wine from independent importers bringing in everything from Moldovan, Georgian or Austrian wines, to cider-adjacent natural wines not only at fine dining establishments, but also at approachable wine bars.
If you are like me, then you likely don’t drink to get drunk, but are more of a social drinker who likes to drink with company, preferably over food. Did I just out myself as a millennial fast approaching that magical age when menu choices matter as much as the company and drinks on offer? Ah well. Here, in no particular order, is a round up of some of my favourite gastronomic wine bars, where you never have to worry about drinking on an empty stomach, let alone tolerate dubious bar snacks.
Konsúlat Wine Room
Hafnarstræti 17-19
The newest baby on the block, this wine room is designed to look like an old fashioned library but make it Nordic — think wood panelling in blue, books stacked to the ceiling, cosy carpets — all making it more of a bright, cheery affair than the dark imagery that the classic conjures up. Konsúlat has what they call, “flights” on their menu. The idea is to have food and wine menus from selected countries that are meant to pair seamlessly and highlight each other. When I visited, it was Italian. Coming off the heels of a successful Spanish flight, one I sadly missed, Italian is, as expected, centred around the many dishes that this culture has successfully managed to share with the world. Arancinis and bruschetta are aplenty, but I really like the thick cut slices of bresaola.
Bodega
Týsgata 8, 101
No other bar in town tops the curb appeal of Bodega. This downtown bar boasts massive neighbourhood popularity, tucked as it is just off of Skólavörðustígur. When the sun shines, there really is no better place to be. If it weren’t for this friendly wine joint, that cute Óðinstorg would be yet another sad little square in town. There are plenty of open bottles, at least a few sparkling ones, so you can always snag a great by-the-glass deal. But I am usually here for the sticky, garlicky, sweetness of the steamed edamame. Don’t knock it till you try it, especially when paired with a glass of fresh and creamy Blanc de Blanc Brut. The baked camembert is lovely too and a no-brainer of an order considering the many grey days we are blessed with here. Service is easy going and the once shy barkeep has warmed up to his old patrons. He also makes a mean cocktail, if that is more to your liking. Happy hour is from 16:00 to 18:00.
Apéro Vínbar
Laugavegur 20b, 2nd Floor
A girlfriend of mine loves the cannelé at Apero so much she usually orders a second plate just so she wouldn’t have to share the warm little things. Don’t baulk at cannelé. The chef at Apéro pipes in just enough mushroom, thyme and truffle cream to keep each mouthful dancing on that savoury-sweet edge. A long, intense red from Bordeaux pairs fantastically well with these beauties. The goat cheese stuffed gougeres are hella scrumptious, too, and go down a treat! Who knew bar snacks could be this good? Or perhaps seafood is more your style. The menu is refreshed regularly, but there will be some kind of crudo, light seafood situation. Recently, I’ve been enjoying their little scallops with fresh grapefruit. If you spot octopus, shrimp or any grilled vegetable situation, order them pronto! Marie, the owner is usually around and will happily find something that is just right for you. If you love to show off your amateur sommelier skills, then you can indulge in some healthy testing with their blind tasting. Happy hour is from 16:00 to 19:00.
Brút
Pósthússtræti 2
“Isn’t Brut a seafood focussed restaurant?” I hear you asking Yes, it is. But it is also a fantastic wine bar before dinner service begins. Happy hour prices for a glass or bottle are ridiculously attractive and my friends and I have often walked in for a glass, stayed for a bottle and then another. The “Wine of the Week” is often a less than 6.000 ISK deal. Chances are you’ll discover something new — after all, their wine list has won and been nominated for the Star Wine List of the year awards for a couple of years now. In a trés chic, worldwide trend-on-time lead, Brút serves dainty tins of Portuguese canned seafood. I can’t get enough of the stuffed squid in a ragout sauce — it’s so good eaten as is, or over a crisp crostini with the house pickled vegetables. If you do run out of the bread, they’ll happily get you more.
Vínstúkan Tíu Sopar
Laugavegur 27
This basement wine bar ushered in the gastronomic wine bar trend. Built around zippy, funky, “this winemaker sealed it with wax from his own bees” kind of wines, there are stories and plenty of moreish plates at Vínstúkan. Rumour has it that Lucas Keller, formerly of Coocoo’s Nest, may be nesting here. Whether that is true or not, the kitchen at Vínstúkan has always punched above its weight. It is also one of those places where I don’t care if the food and wine pairing works or not, as the food is just that damn good. I do occasionally miss chef Ragnar’s sardines over cherries from their early days. But when those plump shrimp, sizzling in garlicky butter make their way to the table, I relax. A few months ago when they were segueing into more substantial plates, I had a wonderfully cooked halibut with bone marrow sauce. I hope it makes a return. The burnt broccoli with lemon peel brunoise is *chefs kiss* in simplicity as is the warm halloumi with herb oil. It’s one of those spots where vegetarians can enjoy the menu just as much as anyone else. Their selection for teetotallers is meh, but hey, with food this good, your date can have that ginger beer. Happy hour is from 16:00 to 19:00 and if you buy a bottle of wine, you get two small plates as well, aperitivo style.
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