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Cheers To Reykjavík! A Boozy Tour Of Iceland’s Capital
I’m not one to turn down a beer, let alone six pints paired with some Icelandic cuisine. ‘Cheers To Reykjavik’ started this summer offering you the opportunity to drink, eat and meet other tourists led by an outgoing Icelandic couple. The first…
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Storms And Stampedes: A Grumpy Icelander Does The Golden Circle
The Golden Circle is the Icelandic travel standard. Like ‘It’s A Wonderful Life’ as a Christmas movie, or beer as the drink of choice when meeting friends, the reason for its stature is obvious—it’s the best way to soak up the maximum…
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Humming Like A Wasp: We Tuk Tuk Off In 101 Reykjavík
Earlier this summer, during an otherwise ordinary Sunday evening, blues musician Halldór Bragason was surprised to find a tour bus poised to drive through his living room. Springing to action, he grabbed his phone and recorded how it narrowly missed his windows,…
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The Langjökull Glacier Tour Is Great (If You’re Not Paranoid)
“Golden Circle! Langjökull glacier!” Our enthusiastic driver Hjörleifur Kristjánsson, “Hjölli” to us, calls out the day’s destinations as he presents the gigantic truck that will chauffeur us around. His demeanour indicated that the “ooohs,” “aaahs,” and “wows” emitted by the group in…
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Glacial Wonderland: Ice Hiking In Vatnajökull
Vatnajökull is the second largest glacier in all of Europe, covering 8% of Iceland’s land mass and dominating the southeast corner of the country. Visible only on clear days, the glacier’s peak sits atop a vast sheet of compacted snow and ice,…
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Blue Ice: Svínafellsjökull, Veronica And Elves
Birta Jóhannesdóttir is helping my daughter Veronica strap crampons over her boots. Our minibus parks in a lot minutes from Svínafellsjökull’s glacier tongue. The lot was purpose-made for the ‘Batman Begins’ film crew, who shot at this stunning location in 2005. Svínafellsjökull…
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Iceland Is Gloomy
I’m exploring Iceland with my daughter. Veronica is in her ninth winter, as age is measured in Egil’s Saga. While investigating climate change I treasure having a junior adventurer along for company and perspective. We’re in Reykjavik before sunrise. Veronica is crashed…
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A Breath Of Fresh Air In Þórsmörk
Tourists have been striking yoga poses in front of Icelandic scenery since time immemorial—or at least since time Instagram-memorial. Clearly, exquisite natural settings and yoga practice are a match made in New Age hiker heaven. This summer, entrepreneurial yoga instructors and massage…
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Walk This Gay
A tremendous amount of care must be taken for an organisation to represent an entire community to international visitors. And a notoriously outspoken community, at that. But the members of Pink Iceland, a travel organisation serving the LGBT community in Iceland, execute…
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Down The Rabbit Hole: Leiðarendi Cave
Stuck in a crawl space less than a metre high while on the verge of a claustrophobia-induced anxiety attack is perhaps not the most ideal situation to find yourself in while vacationing. That is, unless this space happens to be in a…
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The Centre Of The Universe
“Welcome to the centre of the universe,” our guide Stefnir Gíslason says as we drive along a snow-covered, two-lane road surrounded by barren, snow-covered cliffs. We are arriving at the convergence zone of three massive glaciers, including the famously unpronounceable Eyjafjallajökull. It’s…
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In Nowhere Land
Our day tour to Þórsmörk started bright and early in Reykjavík. The pickup time was 8 AM, but we arrived at the BSI bus terminal several minutes early, not quite sure where we would find our bus. Finally, it appeared with the…
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The Hot Springs Of Reykjadalur: Immersing In A River Of Relaxation
Roll up for the magical mystery trip to probably the only place on earth where your nose hair will freeze while your nipples and bum are safe and warm in a river of hot natural water, flowing directly from the core of…
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Reykjanes Peninsula: Romping Through Lava Fields
A walk through customs plus a small wait for suitcases at the Keflavík International Airport plus a dip in the Blue Lagoon just about sums up the Reykjanes peninsula for many tourists who then hop on a bus to Reykjavík. But that’s…


