Culture
Food
Eat It, Or Frame It? Slippurinn Eatery Pops Up At Apotek

Eat It, Or Frame It? Slippurinn Eatery Pops Up At Apotek

Photos by
Timothée Lambrecq

Published January 29, 2018

The family-run Slippurinn Eatery in the Westman Islands is one of Iceland’s beloved regional restaurants. Open only during the summer, and with a focus on slow cooking, wild herbs, and top-quality local ingredients, the 150km journey doesn’t discourage capital city foodies, who sometimes plan an island getaway based around their booking.

In fact, getting some fresh ocean air and sailing into the mountainous, bright green harbour of Heimaey during the summer months is all part of the Slippurinn experience—and something to dream of during the winter season.

So it was a welcome announcement that Slippurinn executive chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson would take over the kitchen of Reykjavík restaurant Apotek during the January off-season for a four-day pop-up. The seven-course tasting menu comprised classic dishes peppered with fresh twists and new ideas, whilst staying true to the slow-cooked, locally-sourced philosophy that has landed Slippurinn on the culinary map.

Balancing act

The meal begins with two starters. First comes a plate of crisp hardfiskur flakes and brittle shards of dried kelp, served with a roe dipping sauce, and paired with a glass of dry Drappier champagne. There’s a thought-out approach to creating a balanced dish that’s immediately noticeable; the rich colours are carefully composed on the muted earthenware, and the mixture of crunchy, creamy, salty and sweet shows a rare and welcome attention to detail.

This is followed by immaculately plated, melt-in-the-mouth foal carpaccio dressed with nutty rapeseed oil, crumbs of goats cheese, and bright green nasturtium leaves. Food doesn’t come much more Instagrammable; it’s a good moment for a game of “Eat it, or frame it?”

Tail of two langoustine

Langoustine—often referred to locally as lobster—is a staple ingredient in Icelandic restaurants. Here, they come cooked to perfection, with a firm, slightly crisp texture giving way to a buttery, melting mouthful, set off by the addition of salty, vividly black sea truffles. The drinks pairing takes an unexpected turn when we’re served a fresh-tasting gin and dill cocktail, poured from a teapot. It’s a highlight in an evening of highlights.

“The colours are carefully composed on the muted earthenware, and the juxtaposition of crunchy, creamy, salty and sweet shows a rare attention to detail.”

The glazed cod collar, with a sculpturally protruding fin, is a meaty cut of fish served with fermented lovage, chicken broth, and potatoes. The fatty fish, carby potato and rich sauce merge into a comfort-food charm offensive that’s mirrored in the next dish: tender slices of medium-rare lamb rump steak with thinly sliced and grilled celeriac and pickled rhubarb. It’s a blissful combination: winter blues, begone.

Dessert oasis

We finish with two sweet courses: first, a creamy Skyr with blueberries, arctic thyme and crunchy toasted oats, then a silken milk chocolate ice cream with chervil sorbet, foamed cream, and a broken wedge of liquorice-studded meringue. Both are pleasingly decadent, and far superior to the usual afterthought dessert.

Fully sated, I relax into my chair as it begins to snow outside. It’s the tail end of January, and this Icelandic feast will almost certainly rank amongst my favourite meals of the year—or, at least, until Slippurinn opens again come summertime.

Read more about Sluppurinn in our 2017 cover story on Reykjavík’s restaurant revolution.


Culture
Food
Smoothielicious: The Grapevine Guide To Smoothies In Reykjavík

Smoothielicious: The Grapevine Guide To Smoothies In Reykjavík

by and

Have you ever craved a smoothie when out and about in sunny Reykjavík? Well, we have. So we formed a

Culture
Food
SOE Kitchen: Ólafur Elíasson and Victoria Elíasdóttir Fuse Dining With Art

SOE Kitchen: Ólafur Elíasson and Victoria Elíasdóttir Fuse Dining With Art

by

Soft grey light pours in through the high rectangular windows of The Marshall House from the overcast eastern sky. The

Culture
Food
Straight Outta Suðureyri: Fisherman Brings The Westfjords To Reykjavík

Straight Outta Suðureyri: Fisherman Brings The Westfjords To Reykjavík

by

Suðureyri is a small fishing village in the Westfjords with a population of roughly 300 people. Once isolated, it is

Culture
Food
Great Moments In Icelandic Cuisine: Kleinur

Great Moments In Icelandic Cuisine: Kleinur

by

Have you ever wondered what that delicious twisted pastry is, often served to complement a standard cup of coffee? Sometimes

Culture
Food
More Than Just A Vegan Spot: Veganæs Goes Beyond Labels With Cruelty-Free Fast Food

More Than Just A Vegan Spot: Veganæs Goes Beyond Labels With Cruelty-Free Fast Food

by

The newly opened eatery Veganæs—in the Gaukurinn music venue—bills itself as a vegan comfort food restaurant. While that’s definitely true,

Culture
Food
Make Lamb Great Again: Reinventing Icelandic Lamb The Middle Eastern Way

Make Lamb Great Again: Reinventing Icelandic Lamb The Middle Eastern Way

by

Icelanders have been eating lamb for a while now. If you’re going to a typical Sunday family dinner, the chances

Show Me More!