Culture
Food
Eat It, Or Frame It? Slippurinn Eatery Pops Up At Apotek

Eat It, Or Frame It? Slippurinn Eatery Pops Up At Apotek

Photos by
Timothée Lambrecq

Published January 29, 2018

The family-run Slippurinn Eatery in the Westman Islands is one of Iceland’s beloved regional restaurants. Open only during the summer, and with a focus on slow cooking, wild herbs, and top-quality local ingredients, the 150km journey doesn’t discourage capital city foodies, who sometimes plan an island getaway based around their booking.

In fact, getting some fresh ocean air and sailing into the mountainous, bright green harbour of Heimaey during the summer months is all part of the Slippurinn experience—and something to dream of during the winter season.

So it was a welcome announcement that Slippurinn executive chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson would take over the kitchen of Reykjavík restaurant Apotek during the January off-season for a four-day pop-up. The seven-course tasting menu comprised classic dishes peppered with fresh twists and new ideas, whilst staying true to the slow-cooked, locally-sourced philosophy that has landed Slippurinn on the culinary map.

Balancing act

The meal begins with two starters. First comes a plate of crisp hardfiskur flakes and brittle shards of dried kelp, served with a roe dipping sauce, and paired with a glass of dry Drappier champagne. There’s a thought-out approach to creating a balanced dish that’s immediately noticeable; the rich colours are carefully composed on the muted earthenware, and the mixture of crunchy, creamy, salty and sweet shows a rare and welcome attention to detail.

This is followed by immaculately plated, melt-in-the-mouth foal carpaccio dressed with nutty rapeseed oil, crumbs of goats cheese, and bright green nasturtium leaves. Food doesn’t come much more Instagrammable; it’s a good moment for a game of “Eat it, or frame it?”

Tail of two langoustine

Langoustine—often referred to locally as lobster—is a staple ingredient in Icelandic restaurants. Here, they come cooked to perfection, with a firm, slightly crisp texture giving way to a buttery, melting mouthful, set off by the addition of salty, vividly black sea truffles. The drinks pairing takes an unexpected turn when we’re served a fresh-tasting gin and dill cocktail, poured from a teapot. It’s a highlight in an evening of highlights.

“The colours are carefully composed on the muted earthenware, and the juxtaposition of crunchy, creamy, salty and sweet shows a rare attention to detail.”

The glazed cod collar, with a sculpturally protruding fin, is a meaty cut of fish served with fermented lovage, chicken broth, and potatoes. The fatty fish, carby potato and rich sauce merge into a comfort-food charm offensive that’s mirrored in the next dish: tender slices of medium-rare lamb rump steak with thinly sliced and grilled celeriac and pickled rhubarb. It’s a blissful combination: winter blues, begone.

Dessert oasis

We finish with two sweet courses: first, a creamy Skyr with blueberries, arctic thyme and crunchy toasted oats, then a silken milk chocolate ice cream with chervil sorbet, foamed cream, and a broken wedge of liquorice-studded meringue. Both are pleasingly decadent, and far superior to the usual afterthought dessert.

Fully sated, I relax into my chair as it begins to snow outside. It’s the tail end of January, and this Icelandic feast will almost certainly rank amongst my favourite meals of the year—or, at least, until Slippurinn opens again come summertime.

Read more about Sluppurinn in our 2017 cover story on Reykjavík’s restaurant revolution.


Culture
Food
Hangry And Shameless: Back To School At Stúdentakjallarinn

Hangry And Shameless: Back To School At Stúdentakjallarinn

by

Universities are known for many things—sports, arts, academics, meeting report deadlines, and, of course, great drinking binges. A lot of

Culture
Food
All Aboard! Grandi Mathöll Is Setting Sail This Summer

All Aboard! Grandi Mathöll Is Setting Sail This Summer

by

The Reykjavík restaurant scene is going through a paradigm shift. Until recently, most of the restaurants in the Greater Reykjavík

Culture
Food
Siglunes Guesthouse: A Warm Sanctuary In A Cold Place

Siglunes Guesthouse: A Warm Sanctuary In A Cold Place

by

Between the snowy mountains in Siglufjörður, you can find a hot and passionate chef from the warm country of Morocco,

Culture
Food
All Good: Family Food In The Heart Of Reykjavík At Gott

All Good: Family Food In The Heart Of Reykjavík At Gott

by

Gott Restaurant is a delightful recent addition to the restaurant scene in downtown Reykjavík, with a long history. The first

Culture
Food
Everything Is Possible: Idyllic Idling In The Revitalised Iðnó

Everything Is Possible: Idyllic Idling In The Revitalised Iðnó

by

We’re sitting by the window seats, overlooking Tjörnin. It’s a wet Saturday morning, but outside, resolute tourists and renegade seagulls

Culture
Food
A New Hope: The Inspiring World Of Natural Wines At Port 9

A New Hope: The Inspiring World Of Natural Wines At Port 9

by

Natural wines are taking the world by storm. At least, the hyper-consuming yet woke nations of Scandinavia, the British Isles,

Show Me More!