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  • Travel

    Iceland In Miniature

    Having planned to spend much of this summer—my first summer in Iceland, in fact—gallivanting around the country, I’ve instead spent most of my time in the city, close to home. But today, I’m lucky. In the name of research, my partner and I get twelve hours to explore the Snæfellsnes peninsula. This is “Iceland in

  • Travel

    Don’t Take Hiking Lightly

    Hiking is a popular recreational sport in Iceland. People by the thousands are on the move in the vicinity of Reykjavík on a good day. While many hike on rather flat ground, mountain hikes have gained popularity over the last two decades. There is a vast array of easy to moderate hikes to choose from

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    Organized Tours

    Into The Abyss

    “It’s a good thing you’re going underground,” our bus driver calls out as his windshield wipers work furiously to bat away the rain. I watch the drops race across my window, blurring the moss-covered lava field that surrounds us. We are headed thirty minutes southeast of Reykjavík, with the intent of entering the chamber of

  • Travel

    Home Comforts And Cosmopolitan Culture

    Akureyri, located on Iceland’s longest fjord, Eyjafjörður, is often referred to as Iceland’s second city, or “the capital of the North.” With a population of just under 18,000, “city” is probably pushing it a bit, but Akureyri is a thriving and charming place nonetheless. Down by the water lies a well-preserved ‘Old Town,’ with various

  • Travel

    From Heavenly Lakes to Hell’s Gates

    Seeing Iceland from the air can be an astounding experience. From the soft blue-grey washes of coastal estuaries and floodwater, to black flatlands with their gleaming silver rivers, to expanses of blinding white glaciers—a flight over the Icelandic heartland is often as much of a treat as the destination.Grapevine sets off towards the North on

  • Travel

    The Bright Side Of The Storm

    In spite of the weather, we’d managed to make something out of the morning.  We’d had that hot spring all to ourselves, and successfully followed our little treasure hunt to that carbonated spring where we stood triumphantly in the freezing wind and rain, laughing and taking turns chugging sweet, sparkling water from its natural source. 

  • Travel

    Just Out Of Plain Sight

    I’m huddled over the steering wheel peering out from behind rapidly jerking windshield wipers as sprays of rain lash out across the glass. The car bounces up and down over the drenched crags of Þingvellir National Park. All of a sudden, the clouds clear and I see the sun break out and shine over Þingvallavatn

  • Travel

    A Craving For Caving

    Forty-five kilometres from downtown Reykjavík I’m standing on a snowy embankment surrounded by the Leitahraun lava field. The snow slopes down, guiding me under a shelf of rock and into a winding crevice to a basketball-sized hole in the ground. Feeling a bit like Alice falling down the rabbit hole, I drop my legs into

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  • Travel

    Powder Galore At Hlíðarfjall Ski Resort

    My travel companion Frosti and I are flying into Akureyri to spend the weekend snowboarding at Hlíðarfjall. Thankfully, we touch down safely. We park our asses in a warm, red Yaris rental car and make for the hostel we have booked for the weekend. The Akureyri Backpackers is too nice to be called a hostel

  • Travel

    Where Winter Is Always Coming

    The guy from New York has seen all three seasons of the television series ‘Game Of Thrones,’ “at least five times,” he says. He, a couple from Colorado, a father and son from New Zealand and South Korea, Nanna (our Icelandic photographer) and I are in a van in sub-arctic temps, north or west or

  • Travel

    Riding With Fire, Tölting On Ice

    Rule number one when riding an Icelandic horse: do not use your leg. Or at least, do not use as much leg as you would when riding a horse English-style. Swinging myself onto the saddle on a dark, snowy January morning, I had not imagined that my day riding through snow-capped mountains and frozen rivers

  • Mag

    Don’t Forget to Breathe

    “You don’t have to be crazy to go swimming in the sea, but it helps.” So says the man sitting next to me in the hot tub at Nauthólsvík, Reykjavík’s Geothermal beach. We’re facing out toward the Fossvogur bay, and if you listen carefully, you can hear the sound of the waves lapping at the

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