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Raufarhöfn In Winter: The Prospect Of Tourism Without The Tourists
A midwinter journey far north reveals intriguing locations, stunning landscapes and blissful solitude Those of us who have travelled northwards to make this land our home would probably say it’s a pretty damn cool place to live. And Reykjavik revels in the…
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Sniff Glue, Dodge Jail, Try Not To Die
A rookie’s guide to driving around Iceland The introduction of the automobile changed Iceland forever: from a near-untraversable wilderness into a land of asphalt terror. There are no trains, barely any buses, and almost no cycle lanes. So if you want to…
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The Summer Ring Road: Around Iceland In 12 Days
Route One is Iceland’s main highway. It circles the country over a distance of 1,321 km, rolling over mountain passes, undulating fjords, deep tunnels, and narrow roads hewn into the sheer coastline. Driving the Ring Road never gets old — under the…
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When The Road Calls Again
Chasing spring through the winding roads of Hvalfjörður Oh, that first sunny day after weeks of grey skies and gloom. The one where the sky turns a crisp, cloudless blue, the sun finally breaks through, and the whole world feels just a…
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Adventure And Bird Conservation On (Not) Björk Island
The study of seabirds takes a team of researchers to the loneliest house in the world While puffins are practically the symbol of Vestmannaeyjar, petrels (a small species of sea birds in the same family as the larger albatross) are much more…
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A Do-Over Decades In The Making: A Music Writer Treks The Laugavegur Trail
The Laugavegur trail is so good I tackled it twice The noises were unlike anything I had heard before. An inhuman blend of wailing and whimpering, growling and grunting, mixed in with some incoherent yelps and trumpeting farts — the kind of…
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The Good’Ol Golden Circle: Taking another spin on the classic travel route
Whether you live in Iceland, you’ve visited Iceland before, or you’re simply Googled “Iceland” in anticipation of one day travelling here, the probability is high that you’ve heard of the Golden Circle. The circuitous route just a stone’s throw from the capital…
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Round And Round We Go
The Reykjavík Wheel has arrived and we have thoughts It was back in 2017 that the idea of a ferris wheel being constructed in Reykjavík was first floating around. At that time, London-based Icelandic designer Marta Jonsson proposed that a massive ferris…
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Charged For Adventure
“Hey, Tesla, take me to the Westfjords.” There are two types of people — those who love camping and those who don’t. Thinking about these polar opposites, I always recall a New Girl episode where Schmidt exclaims, “Camping?” to which Winston adds,…
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Venturing Into The Suburban Abyss
Dipping into Dalslaug Growing up in a suburb of Reykjavík, I was always extremely grateful for the times I got to visit the city centre as a teenager. Whilst a majority of loyal downtowners will do their utmost to never leave their…
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Peace, Perfect Peace
Enjoying the semi-solitude of Fossvogur Cemetery There are few places one can go to be at once surrounded by people and also left entirely undisturbed. If one doesn’t mind that the people you’re surrounded by are not alive, then a cemetery is…
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Bombs And Guns And Stuff
The recent resumption of fin whale hunting has drawn attention onto Hvalfjörður, the fjord near Reykjavík where the whaling station is located. The fjord is not, however, only known for this industry, but also for its role in Iceland’s involvement in World…
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A Rather Unsuccessful Fungi Foray
Lessons learned on the first foraging trip of the year Wild mushroom risotto, oyster mushroom tacos, chanterelle pie, porcini soup, stuffed portobello mushrooms… As the air turns more crisp and I spy a yellow leaf here and there, I know mushroom season…
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A Rollercoaster Of Absurdity, Tragedy, Joy
Ragnar Kjartansson’s retrospective Epic Waste of Love and Understanding hits Denmark’s Louisiana Museum The fact that Denmark‘s biggest contemporary art museum is currently hosting a retrospective exhibition of artist Ragnar Kjartansson is simultaneously mind-boggling and almost incredibly banal. On one hand,…
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How Do You Volcano?
The essential guide to visiting the Litli-Hrútur eruption It finally happened – again. The third volcanic eruption in three years, the Litli-Hrútur volcano continues to deliver. Following a series of earthquakes, on Monday July 10, magma ascended towards the surface in Reykjanes.…
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Birdwatching With A Pro
Learning to “catch and release,” the birder’s way* I vividly remember the moment I met with friends after lockdown. Everyone was sharing their pandemic hobbies and, as you can imagine, there was a lot of sourdough and banana bread baked over those…
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Oh, To Be A Cowboy
Experiencing the unbridled joy of riding Icelandic horses Ah, Iceland — the land of dragons and frozen deserts, where you can experience snow and sunshine in the same day. And if you’re feeling adventurous, why not explore this mythical land on the…
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Paradise Found: Our First Day Of Summer Adventure
Thursday, April 20 07:18 “Are we going somewhere?” — our phones buzz with a notification at dawn. It’s sumardagurinn fyrsti, or the first day of summer, a public holiday celebrated annually on the first Thursday after April 18. Staying home on a…
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Krakkaveldi-approved travel destinations to plan your next adventure around
You’ve read the travel blogs, leafed through the latest Frommers and consulted an oracle. But did you ever think to ask a bunch of kids what areas to visit when in Iceland? We did it for you. Here’s where the Krakkaveldi kids…
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A Cross-Country Comedy (a.k.a. Skiing)
We went to Ísafjörður to master cross-country skiing, but successfully failed There are a few things that don’t go together: pineapple and pizza, crying babies and airplanes, me and sports. I’ve always struggled to find a sport I could truly enjoy for…
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The Rocky Foundation of Law and Order
Travel doesn’t have to entail hitting the road, hopping on a plane or lacing up your hiking boots to trek into remote destinations. There’s something to be said for the staycation, or travelling in time by getting to know the places you…
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It’s Spa O’Clock — Here’s Where to Get Your Soak On
In the past few years, a particularly entrepreneurial spirit has swept the country, inspiring millionaires of all stripes in the throes of religious epiphanies to begin monetizing Iceland’s geothermal springs into dark castles devoted to the worship of cosiness. Where locals and…


