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Sniff Glue, Dodge Jail, Try Not To Die
A rookie’s guide to driving around Iceland The introduction of the automobile changed Iceland forever: from a near-untraversable wilderness into a land of asphalt terror. There are no trains, barely any buses, and almost no cycle lanes. So if you want to…
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Taking The Bait: Inside Grímsey’s Fight For Its Future
“Do you want one? You know… for the nausea?” The Frenchman holds out a blister pack of motion sickness tablets. He and his companions, all laden with huge telescopic cameras, have all popped some. But I politely decline. The sea looks calm;…
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Far From The Crowds: A Hike Through Ásbyrgi
For all its vast tracts of empty landscape, finding solitude in Iceland is becoming harder and harder — particularly at the height of the summer tourism season. Many people are drawn here to seek a reckoning with nature via the country’s jaw-dropping…
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Schrödinger’s Hot Dog: A Broke Boy’s Food Tour Of North Iceland
Over the last decade, Iceland has undergone many transformations — but few as striking as the evolution of its culinary landscape. Quality ingredients, innovative cooking, and delicious meals are now much easier to find — and not just in Reykjavik. One thing…
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A Bird On A Stand Is Worth Two In The Bush
A visit to Iceland’s premier bird museum Ask any tourist to Iceland which bird they’re most looking forward to seeing on their visit, and the answer will be near-universal: the puffin. Those greedy, adorable little fucks have been front-and-centre of every travel…
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Now And Then: Pits Of Despair
Cities need wastelands Walk along the harbour road at Geirsgata today, and you’ll be greeted by something relatively novel in the history of Iceland: an immaculately modern, clean, pedestrianised new district that wouldn’t look out of place in Copenhagen. There’s shops like…
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Iceland Has Its Sights Set On Mars
In September, Iceland took one giant leap closer to becoming an active partner in future Moon and Mars landings — so why is nobody talking about it? A cold wind sweeps across the plain, gently teasing fine grains of volcanic sand and…
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Portrait Of An Island: Nikolai Galitzine Captures A Year On Grímsey
In 2021, the only church on a tiny Arctic island burnt down — and with it, a living archive of the past 800 years went up in smoke. The fire didn’t just erase a piece of the island’s past; it also marked…
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Linguist, Influencer, Author, Actor: Hongling Song Doesn’t Waste a Day
Hongling Song uses her superhuman work ethic to bridge the gap between China and Iceland as a linguist — and finds time to write books and act in between. Hongling Song, 30, linguist Before I start sharing my story, I would like…
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The Spaces In Between: Masaya Ozaki’s Musical Worlds
As one of the most photographed countries on the planet, it’s easy to communicate what Iceland looks like — even what it feels like. But what does Iceland sound like? For Masaya Ozaki, a composer and audio artist based in Reykjavík, the…
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Breaking Point: Fatal Ice Cave Accident Raises Big Questions For Tourism Safety
Ever since the dawn of Iceland’s tourism boom, there have been countless examples of visitors to the island making decisions that are misinformed, foolish, or downright dangerous. From people picnicking on floating icebergs to the woman who joined a search party to…
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Salt Of The Earth: An Outsider’s Look At Icelanders’ Salt Obsession
Prikið, Reykjavík. Sunday morning. My favourite hangover food spot in the city. I am sitting at a table with two Icelanders. Those damn delicious sweet potato fries have just arrived. However, something is missing. The salt. The special salt. I grimace as…
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Grapevine’s Airwaves 2016 Super Review: Thursday
“AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!” We know that feeling. Our ragtag supergroup of stalwarts has been all over town once again, covering the things we think matter so you don’t even have to think about them. You can check out most of these acts in the…
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Taking No Hostages: The Words Beneath The Waves
Whether you’re a musician or a festival-goer, Airwaves is a messy week for all involved. Thursday is the second night of the festival proper, but if you’re anything like the dedicated Reykvíkingar in attendance, it could be your fourth night on the…
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Killing Your Darlings With A Lawnmower To The Face: We Visit An Icelandic Horror Set
Despite possessing a desolate landscape, long winters, and prominent bodysnatcher demographic (sorry, Alþingi), Iceland is not really a landmark when it comes to horror movies—even though it certainly seems like the kind of place that should be. Thanks to a burgeoning national…
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We Went West: 12 Hours In Sagaland
The Westfjords. Snæfellsnes. A petrol station. All places. What do they have in common? Well, they’re synonymous with western Iceland—and, of course, the west is the best. What about other parts of the west, though? Where are they? Are there any? How…
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The Heart Of Darkness In The Age Of Bullshit
There’s been much (some) made in British discourse of the phenomenon of cupcake fascism. If you’ve ever been to London, you might already have a vague, instinctive awareness of what this entails. If I could boil it down to five key elements,…
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People Are Just Not Very Famous In Iceland
Okay, full disclosure: I am from Britain. The British have a very weird (read: unhealthy) relationship with ‘fame’ and those who are ‘famous’. In lieu of any sort of real opportunities to do something that doesn’t involve staring at the grease marks on…
