Now And Then: Is A Church More Than Just A Building?

The evolution of Reykjavík’s most prominent structure

If you drop that question to a devout Catholic or anybody serious about scripture, the answer is no. They will tell you that it’s not the building itself that is the Church, but the flock or the people who make up the congregation. Then they’ll cite scripture, say Romans 12:4-5, Corinthians 12:12-27 or Acts 20.28-29.

But to the average person in Reykjavík, beit tourist or local, THE church is that colossus atop Skólavörðuholt: Hallgrímskirkja. No competition.

One of many buildings in Iceland designed by 20th century State Architect of Iceland Guðjón Samúelsson, the church stands at 74.5 meters and covers 1,676 square meters, making it the largest church in the country. The construction of the church was first commissioned in 1937, with earth finally broken in 1945. But it wasn’t until 1986 that the church was finally ready, just in time to celebrate Reykjavík’s 200th birthday.

The church is named after 17th century Icelandic poet and pastor Hallgrímur Pétursson (1614-1674), whose Passion Hymns (50 in total) are recited aloud in this church every Lenten season (read more about Hallgrímur and his poetry on page 17). Most of these have subsequently been put to music by the likes of Megas, who is kind of like Iceland’s “Bob Dylan.”

On an average day, the road leading up to the church and the plaza extending from the front of the church is crowded with tourists. If they are not there to take selfies with the church itself, they’re taking selfies with the imposing statue out front. And that statue is of whom, you might ask? Well, Leifur Eiríksson, er Leif the Lucky, the man who allegedly found America, christened it Vínland (Land of Wine) and then never went there again, thus contributing to the “loss” of that continent for another half millennia until it was “found” again by another sailor; Christopher Colombus. Read more about Leifur here, or just go get a selfie and be done with it.