The Good’Ol Golden Circle: Taking another spin on the classic travel route

Whether you live in Iceland, you’ve visited Iceland before, or you’re simply Googled “Iceland” in anticipation of one day travelling here, the probability is high that you’ve heard of the Golden Circle. The circuitous route just a stone’s throw from the capital area delivers travellers to a trio of classic attractions: Gullfoss waterfall, the Geysir geothermal area and Þingvellir national park.

It had admittedly been a minute since I had done the full Golden Circle, so when I learned my father, his wife and a couple friends of theirs would be stopping over in Iceland for the first time in a long time, I called up the Grapevine’s friends at Go Car Rental and mapped a route to take them on a classic DIY day trip.

Ugh, weather

When the day of our road trip arrived, the forecast did not bode well for an entirely enjoyable journey. Dark grey clouds loomed over Reykjavík and a peek at Vedur.is confirmed we wouldn’t be driving toward anything dramatically different.

But our eight-seater van was stocked with snacks and water bottles, my kids were hell bent on playing hooky and the majesty of Icelandic nature was sure to shine even in the dreariest circumstances. And so we were off, determined to at least get an early start before the rain began. Out of Reykjavík, over Hellisheiði and down the mountain into Hveragerði and we were still dry. So far so good.

The first stop

Driving along route 35, I gave my passengers an option. “We’re approaching the Kerið volcanic crater a short ways up the road,” I announced to the van, surely putting professional tour guides to shame. “It’s a nice walk around the rim, does anyone want to stop here before going on to Geysir?”

Silence. Then a “nah, I don’t think so.”

And so Geysir would, indeed, be the first stop of the day. (To anyone reading this, I do recommend a stop at Kerið — it’s a pretty spot.)

While the collective level of excitement was low at the prospect of visiting a crater, interest in the Geysir geothermal area was higher. The highlight of the area is, of course, Strokkur, the reliable geyser that erupts every five minutes on average, but walking the cobblestone path to Strokkur first brings visitors past a handful of other geothermal attractions. There’s Litli-Geysir, a bubbling puddle sending billowing steam into the air, a series of bubbling mud pits and some old concrete structure that is steaming. I don’t know what that concrete structure is or was at some point in its life, but it adds a certain something to the landscape that I appreciate.

The piece de resistance, of course, is Strokkur (the Great Geysir itself hasn’t erupted for several years). So we secured a spot along the rope barrier circling the geyser’s azure blue pool and watched and waiting as the waterrised slightly, then receded. Then it rose ever so slightly again and receded. Then the slight rise formed a massive bubble and a mighty column of water shot into the sky as we all oohed and aahed at the site.

Back to the van.

The next stop

Back on route 35, with all sexagenarians and children accounted for and buckled in, we were off to Gullfoss. After seeing water shooting into the air, seeing water falling down a cliff was sure to be a thrill.

It’s genuinely surprising how the experience of Gullfoss changes as you walk along the path that skirts the canyon and delivers you to the rocky outcrop next to the rushing water.

Gullfoss is always a treat to visit, and that was especially true on a gloomy day in early May when there were shockingly few other people there. The rain was still holding off and so we enjoyed the falls from the lookout point on the same level as the restaurant and gift shop and then ventured down the stairs — how many stairs there are, we couldn’t agree on since we all came to different tallies (if you know, please enlighten us) — to see the chute up close and personal.

It’s genuinely surprising how the experience of Gullfoss changes as you walk along the path that skirts the canyon and delivers you to the rocky outcrop next to the rushing water. The view of the multi-tiered waterfall and its enormous canyon changes every few metres. It’s legit beautiful. Plus, I didn’t spy anyone stepping over safety ropes or being obnoxious while I was there, so I could enjoy the scenery without rage.

Last stop

Though we had been lucky with the weather thus far — it was dreary, sure, but it hadn’t rained — our good fortune was about to change. As we entered Þingvellir national park and reduced our speed to the posted 50 km/h (much to the chagrin of the Land Rover behind me), the rain began to fall. Hard.

It’s a fun experience, crawling along through craggy fields and past what are probably worthwhile lookout points during drier times while heavy rain beats the roof of a van, the windshield wipers work in overdrive, the kids in the third row belt out the entire soundtrack of Hamilton, and an old man sleeps in the front passenger seat beside you. These are the family memories I will cherish.

When we finally made it to the Þingvellir visitor centre, I was genuinely surprised that my passengers were interested in getting out of the van to try to take in the view over Almannagjá, the gorge marking the edge of the North American tectonic plate. But they did. We all got soaked to the bone, but we speed walked that semi-circular boardwalk delivering a vantage point over the park. It turns out Þingvellir is beautiful in all weather. Even though it was cold and wet, it was worth the stop.

Homeward

Back in the van and with the volume on Hamilton reduced by popular request, we headed back to Reykjavík. The rain stopped almost as soon as we passed through the gates marking our departure from the national park. Classic. But it would be nice to give the wipers a rest for a while.

Though the weather could have been better, spending a laid back day driving around the Golden Circle was a treat, giving me the opportunity to reacquaint myself with the popular tourist route and to make some new memories with visiting family and friends.

A massive thanks to Go Car Rental for furnishing some sweet wheels. Rent your ride at gocarrental.is.