The Reykjavík Grapevine Living Holiday Glossary

More than two decades of explaining the smells and bells of Christmas

Since 2005, we have been attempting to help tourists and new Icelanders understand Christmas on this barren island. We have made very little progress. This is still a time of abject confusion and social faux pas. Below, then, is a list of some key terms. Remember that it is likely mistakes will be made this holiday season. This is part of the season, and possibly why we celebrate the birth of a child conceived under murky conditions.

Aðfangadagur: December 24th, Aðfangadagur, is the day Icelanders celebrate Christmas. The first half of the day usually goes towards last-minute preparations, making food, wrapping presents, bathing and putting on nice clothes. Six o’clock marks the official start of Christmas in Iceland, and this is when most households sit down to enjoy a pleasant holiday meal. After dinner, most people commence opening their presents. They then hang out and indulge in sweets, usually not alcohol, until bedtime.

Aðventa: Aðventan (or the Advent) is the month leading up to Christmas. Icelanders celebrate each Sunday of the Advent (starting on the fourth Sunday prior to Christmas) by lighting candles on an Advent Wreath (Aðventukrans). The first Sunday of Advent marks the time most Icelanders start decorating for the holidays and preparing in general.

Aðventuljós (or Advent light) is a decorative object somewhat unique to Iceland which began in the early 1960s when an importer named Gunnar Ásgeirsson, who usually sold Volvos and Husqvarnas from Sweden, thought people would buy a seven-lamp candlestick for their aunts. The candlestick has no other meaning and has no relation to the menorah. It was just good business.

Annar í jólum: December 26th, the second day of Christmas, is the designated party day of the holiday season. Revellers go out at about midnight, decked in their fancy holiday attire and re-connecting with friends and acquaintances that they haven’t seen for all of three days.

Áramótaskaupið: Gathering around the TV on New Year’s Eve to watch the Áramótaskaup comedy special on RÚV is an old and honoured Icelandic tradition. A unique quirk: traditionally, a new production team and director take over each year. Subtitles are available in English, though the references may be elusive.

Christmas stockings: The Christmas stockings tradition is celebrated in Iceland, although it differs greatly from what you might be used to. In Iceland, small gifts, like pencils, start arriving in stockings 13 days before Christmas. Ill-behaved children usually receive a rotten potato.

Flugeldar: Flugeldar (fireworks) are an essential part of the Icelandic New Year’s Eve experience, in fact, the sale and deployment of fireworks is only legal in Iceland between December 28 and January 6.

Gamlársdagur/Gamlárskvöld: Although there is no rule, most folks like to gather for a nice dinner feast with family and/or friends at the start of the evening (or late in the afternoon). They hang out, drink drinks, play board games and watch the TV recap of the preceding year. Many head out to their local New Year’s bonfire. After watching the Áramótaskaup and lighting some fireworks, most will head to a rowdier, less family-oriented gathering.

Hangikjöt: Hangikjöt — literally meaning hung meat — is smoked Icelandic lamb which takes its name from the old tradition of smoking food in order to preserve it by hanging it from the rafters of a smoking shed. The highest quality hangikjöt is cooked using sheep shit as fuel.

Hamborgarhryggur: A traditional Christmas food eaten on the 24th at six o’clock. It is pork, usually with a honey glaze and pineapple, cooked in an oven for a few hours.

Jólaball: The jólaball, or Christmas dance, is a longstanding tradition where children are herded by their parents or schools to hang out, eat cake and candy and dance around a decorated tree while singing classic Christmas tunes. More often than not, one or more of the Yule lads will make an appearance and disburse small gifts of candies.

Jóladagur: Jóladagur (Christmas Day) is the big day for family gatherings and Christmas parties. Many like to sleep in and relax before putting on formal attire and heading out to a friend’s house to indulge in some hangikjöt or hot chocolate. Everything is closed.

Jólaglögg: A hot beverage consisting of red wine, vodka, and spices. Often served with raisins, because who doesn’t love raisins in their beverage.

Jólahlaðborð: A fairly new tradition in Iceland, connected to the number of restaurants increasing in later years. A jólahlaðborð is a Christmas buffet that people attend in groups, usually co-workers go together for a night of eating, but mostly drinking.

Jólakötturinn: To avoid, as the saying goes, “going to the Christmas cat,” children are required to receive at least one piece of new clothing in time for Christmas each year. Otherwise, the cat will eat them.

Jólaöl: The ultimate Christmas drink, jólaöl (Christmas ale) is created by mixing an elusive ratio of Malt and Appelsín orange soda. Note that it contains no alcohol. Which is nice for a change.

Jólasmákökur: Jólasmákökur (Christmas cookies) are an essential part of the Icelandic holiday experience. Most households bake their own cookies in the weeks leading up to Christmas, making an average of three to five different types. Yes, it’s expected you’ll bake a minimum of three types of cookie.

Jólasveinar: The Icelandic jólasveinar (Yule Lads) have little to do with the international Santa Claus. They are descended from trolls, and were originally bogeymen used to scare children. The number 13 is first seen in a poem about Grýla (the Lads’ mother) in the 18th century, and their names were published by Jón Árnason in his folklore collection in 1862. About 60 different names of Yuletide Lads are known.

Jólatré: Icelanders’ Christmas trees are usually installed on December 23rd, with the actual decorating taking place on the 24th (although this does differ between households). Various organisations, such as the local rescue squads, sell live trees to fund their operations, although private companies also partake.

Laufabrauð: The making of laufabrauð (leaf-bread) is usually a family affair taking place early in December. People gather together to cut intricate patterns into this deep-fried, thin flatbread, which is then enjoyed as a tasty snack to accompany any Christmas event or meal. It functions as a butter delivery system, as do most of the flavourless holiday treats.

Lutheran bells: The ringing of the church bells of Reykjavík’s Lutheran Cathedral is broadcast on all major television and radio stations throughout the country promptly at 18:00 on Christmas Eve, at which point everyone wishes each other a Merry Christmas and sits down to eat.

Nýársdagur: Inconceivably, given the racket they put on New Year’s Eve, there is a custom of New Year’s Day banquets or parties. Somehow, you are expected to wake up and be social. Perhaps consider this while consuming past, say, 3am New Year’s Eve.

Rjúpur: Wild fowl rjúpur (ptarmigan) are a popular main course for many families’ Christmas meals. By “many”, we mean rich families with access to guns or property in the north. Expect an observation on genetics to come up at the dinner table as your teeth hit a shotgun pellet while dining on this delicacy.

Þorláksmessa: In celebration of one of only two Icelandic saints, St. Þorlákur, Icelanders eat fermented skata (skate), which preferably is swallowed with copious amounts of Icelandic Brennivín schnapps. Then, they will traditionally gather on the shopping street Laugavegur to do some last-minute shopping (although some do the bulk of their shopping on that day), drink Christmas beer or hot chocolate and have a merry ol’ time. Also, this is traditionally the day that children are allowed to decorate the Christmas tree. Please note: skata is consumed outside or in a garage, ideally. And clothes worn while consuming skata should be immediately burned.

Þrettándinn: January 6 is Þrettándinn (the thirteenth), the thirteenth and final day of Christmas according to Icelandic tradition. The event is celebrated with torch processions, bonfires, fireworks, and the king and queen of the hidden people traditionally join the festivities. Back in olden times, it was a scary time to be out and about, as the hidden people can be surprisingly sinister.