Come For The View, Stay For The Food: Laugarás Lagoon Opens On The Golden Circle

It’s no secret that, from east to west, Iceland is sprinkled with spa-like geothermal lagoons catering to every taste. Just a few weeks ago, the latest addition to the country’s lagoon flora opened its doors in the southern stretch of the island. Laugarás Lagoon sits on the banks of Hvítá River in Laugarás, a geothermally active area near the historic Skálholt site, right on the edge of the popular Golden Circle route — less than an hour and a half away from Reykjavík.

All you need, plus a little extra

There’s nothing quite like trying a brand-new lagoon, with towels still soft and fluffy, changing rooms sparkling clean, and a price that won’t drain your monthly budget. First impressions matter — and Laugarás Lagoon makes a positive one.

I arrive at the lagoon around 11:00, just before the first tourist group of the day walks in. A warmly lit corner next to the reception catches my eye — with carefully selected ceramics and the lagoon’s shower products displayed on shelves, it looks more like a showroom than a spa.

“In the best tradition of Icelandic lagoons there’s, of course, a swim-up bar. But the most interesting feature of Laugarás Lagoon is yet to come: this is only the upper level.”

The interior of the changing rooms is bright and welcoming, with light wood and soft fabrics — “a bit uncommon for a wet area,” as Managing Director Bryndís Björnsdóttir later tells me. The space is designed to make you feel private, no matter where you stand. One detail that immediately catches my attention is the music: a playlist curated by designer Anthony Bacigalupo sets the tone for this calm, slow morning. I’m not sure how it would hold up in the height of summer with a full changing room, but getting ready for a relaxing soak to mysterious ambient music works like magic — it feels like a small, unnecessary, albeit luxurious detail.

The shower area is spotless, featuring both an open common shower area and rows of private pods, each equipped with a rain shower and bespoke products — shampoo, conditioner, and body wash made from herbs native to the area. “It’s the same concept of everything — we wanted to bring you to nature,” says Bryndís, explaining that the products are inspired by the earthy yet floral smell you notice when lying down on the grass in the summer.

From the changing rooms, you step into the warm embrace of the lagoon, immediately feeling relaxed. What a way to spend a work Friday!

First, you enter an infinity pool that overlooks the Hvítá River valley and a massive suspension bridge. I’m told that at night, when the bridge lights up, or if you’re lucky enough to spot northern lights, which in 15 days since the lagoon opened has happened several times — the view is spectacular. In the best tradition of Icelandic lagoons, there’s, of course, a swim-up bar. But the most interesting feature of Laugarás Lagoon is yet to come: this is only the upper level. There’s a lower level too, making it basically a two-story lagoon. To reach it, you can either take the stairs or venture under a cascading waterfall. “This is a bit like a river path,” says Bryndís. “You come out at the top of the river, and you sort of, slowly move further and further down.”

Managing Director Bryndís Björnsdóttir; photo by Art Bicnick

I admit, the first time I approach the waterfall, I hesitate. Will the water be ice-cold? Uncomfortable? Surprisingly, it’s neither. As long as you cover your drink with a hand and close your eyes, you’re safe.

The lower deck of the lagoon is a bit more spacious, featuring another bar, a “secluded grotto” aka a quiet corner, separated from the rest by what looks like real basalt rocks, a 40℃ forest tub, a cold plunge pool (the only part of the lagoon I don’t dare to test — at least this time), a dry sauna with panoramic windows, and a steam room. The steam room might be my favourite part of the entire lagoon. Tucked slightly below the main area, it hasn’t been discovered by every guest yet. Simultaneously industrial and elegant, its round window gives you the feeling that you’re on a ship.

I spend my time at the lagoon exploring its nooks and secrets, alternating between the two levels, and sipping a refreshing non-alcoholic cocktail made with locally sourced rhubarb and mint. But there’s more to come!

Hyper-seasonal, hyper-local

As curious as I am to check out the new lagoon, I’m equally impatient to try its on-site restaurant, Ylja.

When Gísli Matthías Auðunsson, known as Gísli Matt, announced he’d be closing his fine-dining brainchild, the seasonal restaurant Slippurinn, in his native Vestmannaeyjar, foodies across Iceland held their breath, wondering what was next for him. Not long after, it was announced that he’d be taking over the restaurant at Laugarás Lagoon, bringing his creativity and inventiveness in cooking to the Golden Circle.

Photo by Art Bicnick.

What caught my eye months before Ylja even opened was a five-course menu titled “Around Laugarás,” celebrating the farmers and nature of the area. While other menus at the restaurant offer meat and fish-based options, this menu is entirely vegetarian and can be made vegan with minor adjustments. Plant-based meals are becoming more accessible in Iceland, but I’ve never seen a five-course vegetarian menu quite like this — and especially not one where the absence of meat isn’t just about swapping in a vegan substitute. Every course is thoughtfully crafted with the diner’s experience in mind. As a vegetarian myself, this is a meal worth celebrating.

“Three words: To die for. I’ll be returning to Laugarás for this bread alone.”

“Our idea is to let it taste like where you are,” says Gísli. “It’s not very far from what we’re doing on the island, but here’s just another types of ingredients. It’s the same mythology — thinking about the produce that is around us.”

We start with a salted cucumber with fennel, rye crumble, herb vinaigrette, and whey — a by-product of skyr; reduced by half, it has the same acidity as a lemon. “A lot of it is just going down our drains, and the sea is always getting more and more sour every year, so to put it back into the food cycle is actually really good,” Gísli explains. Simultaneously, a “humble tomato carpaccio” layered on fresh cheese arrives, and instantly becomes my favourite dish of the day. It’s hard to believe something so simple, basically effortless, can pack so much flavour. The trick here is slightly fermenting the tomatoes.

Earlier this year, I saw on Instagram that another distinguished chef, Lucas Keller of the former The Coocoo’s Nest, was heading to Vestmannaeyjar to work with Gísli. I didn’t know what exactly the two were up to, but the moment Gísli brings a plate with a slice of sourdough, the secret is out. “He was with me organising the bread. So, it’s his famous sourdough bread with slightly caramelised butter. And then we have grilled peppers from the farm nearby,” Gísli says.

Three words: To die for. I’ll be returning to Laugarás for this bread alone.

My companion, Art Bicnick, is having an equally satisfying experience, enjoying the omnivore menu with additions like Arctic char, slow-cooked cod, and lamb sirloin. The number of times he exclaims, “This is the best meal in my life,” is getting ridiculous — it could almost be turned into a drinking game.

Just to come clean, I’ve avoided beets my whole life — they have a strange texture and colour everything on the plate but when Gísli presents a dish of different types of beets, including yellow ones, plated on smoked skyr with pickled bilberries, spiced nuts and tarragon, I savour every single bite — each exploding with a distinct new flavour.

For the main, I get a few different types of cauliflower served over barley porridge made with mushroom and seaweed broth, topped with grilled oyster mushrooms. It’s weird, unusual — but it more than works. Fresh and deeply umami.

I finish the dining experience with a rich, flavourful chocolate mousse made from 70 percent chocolate and olive oil — also completely vegan, as Gísli points out — topped with cacao nibs, blackcurrants that nicely balance the bitterness, and an unexpected Sicilian touch to this Icelandic afternoon: arctic thyme granita.

When Gísli told me earlier that the menu is going to be seasonal, I thought he meant the usual summer-winter rotation but hyper-seasonality is actually at the heart of Ylja. “We rather want to have quite a small menu but change it more often,” says Gísli. “So, for example, the farmers have already harvested the last of the cauliflower that you had, so we’re changing it next week.” The same happened to their version of Caesar salad made with young kale, which is no longer in season. Instead, Gísli is already brewing new dishes in his mind — experiments with locally grown Lion’s Mane mushrooms or rutabaga, as Gísli puts it, a really traditional vegetable to eat in Iceland with a slight twist, “We want to grill it and give it a little bit of character.”

Ylja certainly doesn’t want to focus solely on a special occasion, multi-course dining experience; it also offers a day menu with a soup and a main of your choice, as well as grab-and-go snacks like cookies, sandwiches, and small bites. Families with kids, and even the most picky eaters, will find something to enjoy here.

“The produce here is quite amazing,” says Gísli. “Also, when you start growing a relationship with farmers, they tell you what is best now.”

Ylja, which translates from Icelandic as “warmth,” perfectly captures my experience at Laugarás Lagoon so far — from the steamy walls of the sauna to fine-dining turned into comfort food. I’ll be back.

Experience provided by Laugarás Lagoon. Book your lagoon tickets or reserve a table at the restaurant here: laugaraslagoon.is