Far Flung Food: Dining Discoveries In The Wild Westfjords

Even in over-exposed Iceland there exist areas visited by less than 10% of tourists each year. In fact, just as few Icelanders have ever travelled to the area. And it’s a shame, because the not-so-remote Westfjords boast some of the most stunning landscapes the country has to offer. From stretches of white sandy beaches at Rauðasandur, to one of the world’s most impressive bird cliffs at Látrabjarg, to the brilliant cascade of Dynjandi waterfall, the fingered fjords of the region pack a dizzying punch.

In 2022, Lonely Planet named the region #1 on the list for Best in Travel. Fuelled both by international recognition as well as the tireless efforts of local communities, the Westfjords have been intentional about their positioning as a unique, sustainable travel destination. For decades now, its remoteness and small population have somewhat preserved pockets of traditional life in its many fishing villages and towns. Many, like in Bolungarvík, still hold annual “peysuföt” parties for couples, while the sighting of the sun after a long winter culminates in rightful celebration, replete with pancakes and parties, on “fyrsti sólardagur.”

Having now spent a year living in the region, I can attest to the warmth of the Westfjords and how well connected it is to the mainland despite the distance. Then again, as with many places in Iceland, the drive and distance is as much a part of the experience as the destination.

photo by Art Bicnick

How to get there

There are several ways to get to the region, depending on what towns and attractions you want to visit. Since there are no direct flight services to the region out of Keflavík, it is likely you will either fly from the Reykjavík’s domestic airport to Ísafjörður, or make the drive from the capital along one of two common routes — traversing the fjords of ‘Djúpið or taking the mountain roads of Dynjandisheiði. Both will reward you with unforgettable sights of the grassy plains of the south, swiftly changing to hilly terrain, endless skies and unforgettable views. Don’t forget to make pit stops as necessary.

Right as you enter the Búðardalur region is Rjómabúið Erpsstaðir. Pioneers of dairy products, there has seldom been an independent producer who offered as delicious alternatives to monopolistic dairy company MS as this family business. The skyr konfekt is an utterly delicious confectionary, marrying Iceland’s two culinary loves, skyr and white chocolate. Plenty of cheese, homemade bread and butter speckled with sea salt flakes stock the shelves. Whether you have a picnic basket or not, get a scoop of their ice cream. The rhubarb is especially lovely — a taste of the creamy summer we all yearn for.

You can continue on your journey past Búðardalur in one of two ways. The scenic route of Breiðafjörður is especially pretty, with little islands dotting exceptionally still waters. See if you can spot the little fiskbúð by Þverá á Barðaströnd to buy duck eggs and smoked trout. Pay by transferring money to the account info shared inside. It’s an honesty system, so don’t be an ass — pay for what you take.

If you go the other way, then you may want to stop in Hólmavík for an introduction to all the witchcraft and magic steeped into runes and bones or just keep driving until you make it to either Ísafjörður or one of the fjord towns on the other side of the peninsula.

Since an itinerary would vary depending on your interest, here is a selection of our must-do’s when in the Westfjords, from a food lover’s perspective. Stop as much or as little as you’d please. Plan for contingencies if you’re flying to the region, as windy weather can often stall or delay flights. If driving, make sure to have a good car, preferably a four-wheel drive, as weather can play havoc even during the summer months — you are in Iceland, after all; changing weather is the one thing you can always count on.

Litlibær in Skötufjörður
61, 401 Ísafjörður
All week: 10:00 – 17:00, summer only
Once a family home where 27 people are believed to have lived, this sensitive restoration of a traditional turf house comes alive during summer. Seals laze around in their chonky blond glory by the rocky beach close by. Inside it smells like grandma’s house with freshly baked waffles and pancakes all day. Psst… keep your eyes peeled for the plastic box of blueberry and rhubarb jam; it’s some of the best in the country.

Súðavik hiking trails
Just before you reach this sleepy fishing village, stop at Valagil, a spectacular ravine with an even more impressive waterfall that runs through it. You’ll find this at the end of Álftafjörður, not too far from Suðavík. I believe its remote location is the reason for its hidden status. This is a good time to whip out that picnic as Súðavik has not much in terms of food options except for the cafe at the Melrakkasetrið.

Heimabyggð
Aðalstræti 22b, 400 Ísafjörður
Mon-Fri: 8:00 – 18:00; Sat: 10:00 – 17:00; Sun: 10:00 – 16:00
A cosy little cafe/bakery/lunch spot all rolled into one, Heimabyggð seems to be doing the impossible — keeping a restaurant going in one of the more sparsely populated regions. Open throughout the year, this conscious cafe dishes up wholesome eggs on toast, warm-from-the-oven cakes and pastries, and a mean coffee. The walls are papered in a rotating carousel of community outreach programmes. It is an excellent place to practise your fledgling Icelandic.

Downtown Ísafjörður
Neðstakaupstað, 400 Ísafjörður
May 15 – Aug 31: 10:00 – 17:00; Sept. 1 – 15: 11:00 – 15:00
Once bundled up out of the café, make your way towards Tangagata. All the streets between Aðalstræti and Silfurgata are some of the most charming cottage-core lanes, replete with full elevations of old Icelandic timber houses, some dating back to the Danish period. Don’t miss out on the impressive swimming pool by state architect Guðjón Samuelsson. Walk towards Neðstakaupstað and you’ll find a collection of pristine timber houses. The grand dame of them all is the black timber house with an impressive roof and style rarely seen in Iceland. This is home to the Westfjörds Heritage Museum or Byggðasafn Vestfjarða. Dating back to the 18th century when Danish merchants still ruled, the exhibition is a fascinating insight into the fishing industry of the times. The building, setting and the exhibition make for a time-travelling experience that new-built structures seldom achieve.

Tjöruhúsið
Neðstakaupstað, 400 Ísafjörður
Monday: 18:00 – 22:00; Tue-Sun: 12:00 – 14:00 & 18:00 – 22:00
Despite its popularity with locals and Icelanders across the country, Tjöruhúsið still manages to be a bit of a secret haunt. The definitive seafood buffet experience, this is one of a kind dining that showcases the best of Icelandic seafood cooked simply but still elevated. No matter your feelings about cod throats, make room for unctuous on the inside, crispy on the outside morself of gellur or kokotxas. Most of the fish is cooked in copious amounts of butter, pan-fried with olives here, some grapes there, lots of lemon, or a savoury onion sauce. Helpings are unlimited so bring an appetite. Children eat for free, so hurrah!

Sundlaug Bolungarvíkur
Höfðastígur 1, 415 Bolungarvík
Mon-Fri: 6:00 – 21:00; Sat-Sun: 10:00 – 18:00
This modest pool may not look like much from the outside, but walk into the changing room, pool and spa, and you’ll quickly change your mind. Designed in a brutalist fashion by architect Jes Einar Þorsteinsson, custom details abound everywhere — from the tapered wall corners on the way to the spa, to the tiled corners. The outdoor hotpots and slide may not be avant garde, but there is little that comes close to the surreal joy of an early morning soak in an Icelandic hot pot.

Ósvör Maritime Museum
Bolungarvík
Daily: 10:00 – 16:00
This sensitive, albeit romantic ideal of shoreside refuge for fishermen of yore is absolutely breathtaking. You’ll even meet your host, a true Icelandic fisherman, kitted out in once traditional attire for the occupation. The views from Ósvör are otherworldly, so stay a while, even as the seagulls squawk overhead.

Víkurskálinn
Þuríðarbraut, 415 Bolungarvík
Daily: 10:00 – 16:00
Would you believe me if I told you this tiny restaurant/drive-through in a former gas station whips up tasty pizzas and burgers that would rival Reykjavík’s juiciest joints? Locals from around the area flock to this tiny place to fulfil their fast food cravings, washing it all down with an ice cold beer.

Íþróttamiðstöðin Brattahlíð
Aðalstræti 55, 450 Patreksfjörður
Mon-Thurs: 8:00 – 21:00; Friday: 8:00 – 19:30; Sat-Sun: 10:00 – 15:00
That rare pool in Iceland that doesn’t overlook a grey parking lot or block out views with tall timber screens meant to protect from the wind. In Patreksfjörður, the town went all out and splurged on an infinity-style pool with sweeping fjord views and lounging pools that make the drive well worth it.

Simbahöllin
Fjarðargötu 5, 470 Þingeyri
Open June 1-Sept 8, Daily: 10:00 – 17:00
Cute as a button Simbahöllin is a passion project of an industrious Belgian family that fell in love with Þingeyri and the rundown Sigmundarbúð, which they restored into the easily recognised yellow-green café. Known for their now legendary Belgian waffles with cream and their in-house bakes, the family has built a community around them, as is commonplace in the countryside. Stop for soup, stay for waffles and gazing out at the dreamy vistas. You might even end up staying for their special tajine nights or one of many concerts and gallery openings.

Read more about the Westfjords here.