Grapevine’s Best Of 2016: An Antiquarian Book Lover’s Guide To Reykjavík

by

Reykjavík is a relatively small city, but even so, sometimes you need a bit of local advice to find what…

An Icelandic Chef In The Big Apple: Chef Gunnar Karl Alights at Grand Central

by

On a typical day, 750,000 people pass through Grand Central Terminal in Midtown Manhattan. That number—twice the population of Iceland—includes…

Last Words: “Schmuck?”

by

Piss-warm Gull was beginning to dull my taste buds and whet my tongue. I was at a house party, debating…

Friendly Ghosts And Langoustine: A Day In Stokkseyri

by

It’s snowing in Hellisheiði. Powdery drifts sweep over the narrow strip of asphalt that cuts through the snow-laden mountains. Like…

Happening Tonight: Icetralia

by

Icelandic comic and cartoonist Hugleikur Dagsson has teamed up with Aussie ex-pat Jono Duffy to put together this recurring comedy…

A Close Encounter With The Arctic Fox

by

Skimming briskly along Ísafjarðardjúp, the large bay that cuts between the Westfjords’ northernmost and middle tines, I lose phone service…

Three Weird Tricks To Ensure An Elf-blessed Time In Iceland

by

Get yourself a Northern Lights timetable: If you’ve ever had one of those days where everyone is going on and…

Aldrei Fór Ég Suður Puts Ísafjörður In Focus

by

Ísafjörður wants you to know that it’s awoken from wintry slumber and it’s celebrating with the thirteenth annual Aldrei fór…

Aldrei For Ég Suður Festival Announces New Venue

by

The thirteenth installment of Aldrei fór ég suður, a music festival held annually on Easter weekend in Ísafjörður, will take…

I <3 U Bónus Avocados

by

If you’ve ever found yourself pushing your cart through the bright reds and yellows of generic brands at your neighborhood…

Icelandic Words That Didn’t Make The Cut: Hairy Berry And Flat Pies

by

The Icelandic language is famous for rejecting loan words, offering up novel neologisms constructed from native components instead of adopting…

SNOWMAGEDDON! In Pictures!

by

Mama Nature is not taking a break here in Iceland. Never mind that Reykjavík had already been layered thick with…

Clever Airwaves Hacks For the Savvy Traveler

by

It feels like Christmas in July in Reykjavík, though it’s neither July nor Christmas. Albeit, Laugavegur is beginning to look…

Don’t Miss RWSRWS, Presented By Grandabræður

by

Maybe you’ve seen the capital letters “RWS” painted in various corners of downtown; maybe you’ve seen the cryptic wheat pasted…

Sounds Of Strife: Music Collaged From Former Conflict Zones

by

Looking for a way to ease into the weekend? Ambient musician Sam Slater will bring his rich, haunting soundscapes to Mengi this…

I Woke Up Like This: Making 101 Flawless With Reykjavík’s Morning Cleaning Crew

by

Seagulls bicker over a pile of soggy vomit. House music and drunk banter pour out an open window. Smashed glass,…

Cycle Music & Art Festival: Conceptual Art Comes To The Suburbs

by

This August, an exciting new festival comes to Kópavogur. Cycle Festival, a four-day interdisciplinary arts extravaganza, will showcase unconventional works…

Don’t Let Them Do That To You: In defence of MoMA’s “Björk”

by

If you’ve read coverage of the recently opened Björk retrospective at Manhattan’s Museum of Modern Art, chances are you’ve read…

A Steady Heartbeat

by

The Reykjavík Dance Festival is no stranger to flexibility and experimentation. Founded in 2002, the festival has provided Icelandic and…

The Book Cellar’s Book Seller

by

Narratives of Reykjavík’s used book culture often take the form of jeremiads—languorous laments for a bygone heyday, a paradise lost…

We Own This Town

by

It came as a surprise to many when Reykjavíkurdætur appeared on the line-up for this year’s instalment of Eistnaflug—the female…

Crossover Appeal

by

Since 1997, The Icelandic Drag Competition (Draggkeppni Íslands) has grown from a small low-frills, nightclub function into a full, fabulous…

Best Place To Cool Off On One Of Those Icelandic Scorchers

by

It’s 15 degrees. Fahrenheit? No, Celsius. Shorts weather? Fuck you, it’s underwear weather. The sun bears down on a thick,…

Weather Or Not

by

Red sands, yoga, seal-watching, camp games and nightly concerts in a barn—the only thing the organisers of Rauðasandur Festival couldn’t…

We’re Here, We’re Skyr

by

This summer, as we mark the centennial of a war that entangled many of the world’s countries in horrific bloodshed,…

Hekla’s Volcanic Heart Of Darkness

by

People often set aside the interior of Iceland as “other” from the rest of the country: it’s a barren, uninhabitable…

Stray Teeth

by

John Steinberg greets me at the Varmahlíð bus stop with a firm handshake. “Welcome to Varm-uh-hlid, welcome to Skagafjorder,” he…

Hare Kría, Hare Rama

by

Trying to recall specific details of Prince Rama’s performance at Faktorý is a bit like trying to piece together the…

Gimme Gimme Morr

by

Morr Music have released and distributed so much Icelandic music over the last decade that founder Thomas Morr says people…

Dharma In The North-Atlantic

by

In his shades and North Face jacket, you probably wouldn’t recognise Jakusho Kwong-Roshi as a highly influential spiritual leader. But…

No Plans, No Stress: Route 1 In 96 Hours

by

The plan was simple: a road trip around Iceland, sticking mostly to Route 1, but turning off when we wanted….

Iceland’s First Gay Lovers?

by

Dr. Óttar Guðmundsson’s bookshelf at his office at the Landspítali hospital’s psych ward is neatly divided into two sections. On…

Awkward Times at Innipú inn

by

To be perfectly honest, by day three of Innipúkinn, I was hardly thrilled to be heading to another night of…

Thumbs Up: Hitchhiking to Þjórshátið

by

As I walk up to the edge of the road, I’m filled with a feeling I can only identify as…

Home Is Where The Heart Is

by

The sun is shining, music is playing, toddlers are playing on the seesaw, teenagers are picnicking and tourists are taking…